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A.J. ADAM
“TROCKEN” MOSEL RIESLING
In 1868, the Mosel and Saar wine regions in Germany were famously mapped for the first time in the modern era, classifying essential and prestigious quality vineyard sites. The map was commissioned by the Kingdom of Prussia, completed by cartographer Adam Georg Dienzand, and published by Franz Josef Clotten. This was a revolutionary document for the time, clearly articulating the idea of terroir with an unprecedented level of specificity. Eight tax levels, in fact, were simplified and condensed into three “quality” rankings for the vineyards, indicated by the three-tone legend toward the bottom-left of the map. Meanwhile, the celebrated contemporary Bordeaux classification (1855) ranked quality based solely on the producer, with no mention of the vineyard.
I can see you scrunching up your forehead, asking yourself: Zach, why are we looking at a 150+ year old map of Germany?
It comes down to the importance of perspective.
Specifically, the perspective applied by Andreas and Barbara Adam — the current winemaker-proprietors at Weingut A.J. Adam.
If you look closely just to the left of the Reinsport marker, you’ll see the “Thron” moniker. This was the 19th century spelling of the now-famous Dhron vineyard region, the apex of which was the Hofberg vineyard at the top of the hill. As you can see by the dark red shade in the map, this was given the top rating in the 1868 classification — and the Dhroner Hofberg vineyard site remains today one of the most premier Riesling sites in Germany and the entire world.
Andreas Adam is almost single-handedly responsible for bringing the Dhroner Hofberg back to its former status as one of the great Grand Crus of the Mosel. In the 1970s and 1980s, some growers in the village abandoned winemaking for work in larger cities, including Andreas’ parents. Adam re-started his family estate while still studying at Geisenheim University, releasing his first vintage under the Weingut A.J. Adam label in 2000 when he was just 19 years old.
Andreas was joined by his younger sister Barbara in 2013, after her graduation from Geisenheim and a stint at Keller in Rheinhessen. The estate has taken its place as one of the very finest estates in the Mosel. The two siblings work side by side and are responsible for vineyards and cellar together. Andreas & Barbara farm 45 separate parcels on the Hofberg, Häs’chen and Goldtröpfchen in Piesport, in a full spectrum of styles from dry to sweet. Production of the entire winery is approximately 1250 cases across 16 bottlings.
“I sustain my vineyards by intensive soil work to bring out the essential nutrients up from the primary rock, the natural compost of a vineyard. This completion of the bond between elemental soil and the work of the vintner is another piece in the puzzle of terroir… I think in Germany we see terroir as a unity of grape, climate, soil, and the mentality of the person who works the vineyard. But the essence of that mentality is a knowledge that the geology of his terrain indeed creates the flavors in the grapes which grow there.”
Watch Barbara and Andreas Adam speak about the 2019 vintage in Mosel (30 minute video)
Barbara and Andreas speak on the variance in single vineyard sites (12 minute video)
Incredible Google Earth Video showing the slopes of Mosel vineyards (9.5 minute video)
100% Riesling
This Estate Trocken (Gutsriesling) is entirely from Dhron. Like a good Bourgogne Blanc it’s sourced from several top vineyards to make a wine that speaks to the vintage, region and style of the producer. The fruit harvested was very clean and at about 79 oechsle, similar to his Hofberg Kabinett. Fermented with spontaneous yeast in stainless steel and a bit of old fuder, the fermentation stopped at 7 grams of RS, “where it finds it’s balance”.
Age of Vines: 5-20 years old
Soils: Weathered Devonian slate with quartzite
Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel
Remember: Trocken = dry!
Residual Sugar: 7g/L (but balanced by the high-toned acid)
Sustainable farming; Suitable for Vegans
tasting notes: The dhron offers a unique ripeness, which lends aromas of fresh fruit (apple, pear, peach, lychee) and the slightest tones of honey. On the palate, a pleasant mineral salinity (from the soil) with lean apricot, tart apples, and mouthwatering acidity