A Kennebunk for Every BudgeT•The Boston Globe

[A huge shout out to Christopher Muther and the Boston Globe for the kind words. FWIW, we never saw you as a slubberdegullion, and you and your chemise are welcome back any time.]

The concierge at the White Barn Inn told me that this wine-soaked stalwart is where the locals go, so I ventured in on a sleepy Monday night and ordered the tuna tartare, using it as a very flimsy excuse to sip an adult beverage.

My server saw through me like a Frederick’s of Hollywood lace chemise, skipped the pretense, and steered me in the direction of cocktails. For a wine bar, the spirits program is wide-ranging and my server was very skilled deciding drinks for me based on my tastes. But before you mistake me for a total slubberdegullion, I continued down the menu with healthy choices such as the roasted carrot and quinoa salad and the Chioggia beet salad.

I can understand why locals come here. It’s laid back and friendly. The menu occasionally veers into pricey territory (the pan-seared halibut is $29), but given the fresh ingredients and innovative menu — a fellow diner let me try her halibut — I had no problem with the bill. Next time I’ll lay off the cocktails and focus a bit more on the food.